Cleveland detours

We exit the trail at Harvard Ave. in the middle of an industrial park. We head left and then right looking for the trail. There is only construction. Then we come to another section that says “Trail Closed.” After re-examining the trail map as well as Google maps we continue forward. A mountainous slag heap of black material sits to our right. Crossing an overpass, we find the completed trail behind a shopping center. Ted spots a burger joint and we stop in for a well-deserved milkshake. 

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As we drink our shakes, across the train tracks from the trail is an old steel factory that seems to extend for miles surrounded by a web of rails. We look for information about the area in the Steel Heritage Center Museum next to the trail, but it is closed and empty as we peer through one of its windows. The irony is not lost on us. We view outdoor displays of old tools and machinery used in the steel industry and then continue on our way. 

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The trail on this section is new and amazing. There are recent tree and shrub plantings on the sides of the trail as well as wildflower gardens with black-eyed Susies dominant. Much of the plantings are part of a rehabilitated superfund site. Cresting hills we are treated to a panoramic view of the section of Cleveland called Industrial Valley.

We walk out on a cantilevered overhang that frames the valley and its vast industrial buildings and machines. Only a few of the buildings appear to be active spewing either steam or burning gases. Vast parking lots are devoid of cars as are the countless railroad tracks interconnecting these facilities.  

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We coast down the hill in a ribbon of renewal amidst a blanket of decay. The trail ends in a circular landing featuring an educational exhibit about a railroad roundhouse. 

Unsure of where we should go next, we reexamine the map and determine we need to bike the wrong way on a one-way street. We make a few turns and find ourselves overlooking downtown Cleveland with a huge Cleveland sign. Photo op!

Finding the trail we coast down to the Cuyahoga River. This section, too, is being reclaimed with remediation plantings, benches and a fresh look. Missing a critical turn we pass by an elevated bridge and find ourselves in yet another industrial neighborhood. We decide to head for the lake.

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Traveling north we go over an old bridge with an open steel deck. I travel slowly and carefully as I feel my bike slipping beneath me and don’t want my wheels to spin out. Successfully crossing that bridge and yet another we find another bike trail but it is not part of the Ohio to Erie Trail. Looking at Google maps, we are less than a mile from our final destination, but are unsure how to proceed. Ted takes over the navigation of our journey and we take another bike path to River Road and cross another steel-decked bridge and find ourselves on Whiskey Island.

Crossing the bridge we find ourselves in an industrial area with numerous Cargill signs stating NO TRESPASSING. Train tracks surround the area as it appears we are at a dead end. We can see a marina on Lake Erie and Whiskey Island Road, which will take us to Edgewood Park, but train tracks and a high steel fence separate us from it. 

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Dejected, we are about to turn around when we see a white van drive on a gravel path next to the railroad tracks and disappear. We take a look and there is a crossing and an open gate on the other side of the tracks. We reach Whiskey Island Road and soon enter our final destination, Edgewater Park.

It’s a hot day with the beach and lake are filled with bathers. Ted decides we must take a dip. He gets into his bathing suit, jumps in the water and splashes around. 

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After he swims he comes back demanding that I, too, need to enter Lake Erie. My refusals reach deaf ears and I know there is no way to back out. Removing my shoes and shirt I enter the lake. The water is thick with green and brown organic material. No one notices or cares. I enter up to my knees, turn for a picture and then return to my bike for our short ride to our motel. 

We are done. 

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