The last day

Like all our other mornings, we started our last day on the towpath trail with beautiful weather. With the exception of being caught for over 1 hour in a downpour on our first day, our trip has been idyllic. The morning starts out cool with a light wind coming over the river. 

But before we can even get a sweat going, we are detoured up a large hill through a residential neighborhood. To the right, we view the reason for the detour: a huge sewer construction project next to the river.

This area is called Canal Town as a town emerged around this area in the 1800s. We pass an old grocery store in white clapboard that was likely central to the community. After a little more construction,  we are back on the trail and smooth, easy peddling.

The area we traverse is deeply wooded and I lose sight of the canal. This would happen often today. But the weather is perfect for biking. “I can take this temperature all the way to Cleveland,” says Ted. 

We stop at an overlook of the Cuyahoga River, which is moving briskly, and will lead us into Cleveland. The first time I heard of the Cuyahoga was through a Randy Newman song, “Burn On” whose lyrics disparaged the city of Cleveland and river, which had once caught fire because of industrial pollution. We would find that the river has been transformed into a wonderful recreational resource.

The railroad has started to run next to the trail, keeping us between it and the river and canal bed. Also next to us is a huge sewer trunk line from Akron that runs miles into a composting facility, where is it used to create Soil Magic, a soil conditioner for gardens. 

After the composting facility, we enter the Cuyahoga Valley National Park, where we will spend most of the day cycling.  As we enter the park, a mile marker with 30 etched on it greets us. 

The railroad tracks next to us accommodate a scenic railroad that could take us and our bikes to the edge of Cleveland. We both reject the temptation. It is too early in the day.

We coast past canal lock after lock as this section is steep and locks frequent. We don’t go too fast, however, as many riders and walkers populate the trail. Depending upon location, the canal takes many different forms ranging from dry forest bed to part of a large lake or wetlands. 

We see the latter stoping at Beaver March, which is accessible via a winding boardwalk. It is choked with water lilies whose flowers have just started to bloom. Frogs hide but can be heard amongst the vegetation. Turtles sit on logs sunning theirselves as would a series of Russian nesting dolls.

We pass through an alluvial flood plain near the river, but it wouldn’t be Ohio if corn was not somewhere close. As we pass through some small fields, they are tall with emerging golden tassels. A farm stand is adjacent to the trail selling vegetables and baked goods. But as it doesn’t sell coffee Ted and I decide to pedal on.

The Cuyahoga has picked up speed as small rapids can be heard next to the trail. The river looks like it is a lot of fun but we will not see a single canoe or kayak on the river today. Food stops being infrequent, we decide for an early lunch in Peninsula, where locks and structures were built to have the canal flow over the Cuyahoga. It was a good choice as the meal was excellent. 

With 26 miles to go, we continue down the trails toward Cleveland. The path varies between stone dust, dirt, asphalt and boardwalks (over wetlands.) Each has its own feel and should be peddled differently. Unlike our railroad derived trails, this one undulates both vertically and horizontally, making the ride more challenging and interesting. 

The heat of the day keeps most animals in as it is more  silent in the afternoon than in the morning. A pair of great blue herons pose for us and a dark red squirrel runs across our path. The Cuyahoga sweeps back and forth in lazy oxbows with a few ripples in the water. A high cliff of wildflowers kisses the trail and drops into the water creating a wonderful effect for us as we stop to admire the view.

Thirteen miles to the end of the towpath trail, we hit the suburbs and more industrial surroundings. Though there are many reminders of nature around us, we are no longer in the woods.

We travel over two suspension bridges made for the bike path and under a few interstates one of which has a crane next to it extending over 100 feet. We pass old factories, gas lines and under old, rusted railroad bridges. We soon will enter the final part of our trip.