Getting going: Day 1 on the Erie Canal

A gray, cloudy start to our trip punctuated by an ill-timed, flat tire is the only glitch in an otherwise delightful first day of 53 miles on our bikes. Our legs take us from the industrial debris and buildings in Buffalo to corn fields and apple orchards in Medina.

The Shoreline Trail in Buffalo takes us through many a blighted area that is bracketed by abandoned industrial buildings and expressways chock full of cars and trucks. It is little wonder that many bikers start this trip north of us where a more rural landscape predominates.  But for me I like the industrial nature of this start as it reminds me of how my father and grandfathers worked in the steel mills of Pittsburgh. 

We weave in and out of active roads and newly constructed bike trails with the edge of Lake Erie to our left. The water is moving quickly toward Niagara Falls, which is why the early Erie Canal was extended to Buffalo so barges would not have to fight the heady currents.  

The ride is easy and even with occasional rain showers, Ted and I are comfortable as we near the start of the Erie Canalway Trail in Tonawanda. 

Nearing the end of the Shoreline Trail we approach downtown Tonawanda spotting an abandoned trestle bridge to our left. The morning’s occasional rain increases in intensity. Time for rain gear.

But there is a problem: the beginning of the Erie Canalway Trail is blocked by construction and barriers. Not to be thwarted, we follow a well-worn path of others who, too, were looking to enter the trail at this point. With a slip or two along a muddy incline, we find our way onto the entry bridge and go forward.

Ironically to me the prior miles are more interesting than those we are traveling now. Abandoned power and fabrication facilities have given way to large expanses of lawns and simple houses. But soon these calling cards of suburbia give way to a more rural expanse of land and surroundings and a more interesting ride.

The first hint of this is the sweetly sour scent of manure enhanced by the increasing humidity now that the rain has stopped and the day is heating up as the sun shines from up high. Turning a corner, a swarm of monarch butterflies give way to us. A snake slithers across the trail.

Birds increase in density with robins, warblers, red-winged blackbirds and finches flying from tree to tree looking for a meal. The canal’s water is a deep brown, unmoving in a lazy fashion. A few people are trying to catch a fish though we have not yet seen any successful attempts. 

We are now over 30 miles into our day and I am exhausted and hungry. We arrive into Lockport and a place for lunch. Lockport is unique as it was built with one set of five locks that raised and lowered boats on the canal. This impressive feat of engineering still stands today though the original five locks have been replaced with two for canal traffic.

Leaving Lockport, the trail transitions from asphalt to stone dust. We ride with care knowing that tumbles are easy to take as muddy spots can throw one’s balance easily. But Ted and I have good experience with this so we pedal without incident  toward our evening hotel.

The views have become more uniform with corn fields and apple orchards to our left and the canal to our right. We just notice that the canal is much higher than the lands to our left. That is one of the many likely reasons that lock gates are installed to control the flow of the river. They are impressively large structures.

The stone dust crunches under our tires as we keep a constant pace next to each other.  There are few bridges across the canal and most of those that exist are raised and lowered with hydraulics to let large boats pass through. Each town we pass has its own unique bridge and sign calling for a visit. 

But we do not stop. At this time of day Ted and I often speak little as we both continue at a steady speed. The only thing that slows us is the excessive number of Canadian geese that have taken up residence on the trail. Their blockage as well as abundant calling cards scattered about forces Ted and me to take evasive action more often than we would like breaking our pace.

The clouds in the distance are thickening, no doubt getting ready to dump more rain on us. The shadows are lengthening over the corn fields and in the distance, I can see the bridge that will take us to our hotel for the evening, a hot shower and a good meal.